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Tsavo West National Park

From the east it's time to visit the western side of the largest national park in Kenya, which also happens to be home to the big five, which we'll get to see if we are lucky.

The journey

Traffic is heavy along Mombasa road on this Friday morning, mostly with trucks ferrying their goods to and from Mombasa ports. Ever since the road was repaired there has been considerable growth in the towns along the way, with plenty of stopovers available. We choose a petrol station in Makindu to refuel and have some chapati and tea. Across the road is the Sikh temple where stranded travellers may find food and rest in exchange for an optional small donation.

It helps to use a map on long distance trips as there are plenty of places to learn about. At the small town of Mbui Nzau we stop to ask for directions to the Makindu Handicraft Cooperative Society, which turns out to be a few metres further down the road, about 5 minutes drive from Makindu. This is a cooperative society that greatly benefits the locals, and Masua the marketing manager takes me on a tour to see their wares.

Local crafts at amazing prices!

The cooperative society was established in 1981 by a few individuals, whose number steadily grew to over 121 members, few of whom are women. Some customers make orders for export, otherwise they mostly rely on local purchases. Unfortunately these are few and far in between, partly because tour operators do not bring their van loads of tourists here unless they get a cut, regardless of the fact that they drive right outside the premises daily. As Kenyans we really need to support our local industries, and in fact the prices are extremely favourable at factory price. The main competition comes from other cooperative societies and the popular Maasai markets held in Nairobi.

The variety in designs is impressive, including very unique pieces like crocodiles carved out of tree roots and a 3-door carving of Mary, Joseph and Baby Jesus in a cradle carved out of Olive wood. I decide to buy some multi-coloured fruit bowls for my parents, then substituted one with a plain wood coloured one since the famous 'Kamba colours' were rather bright...!

The Kamba community is renowned for their skills in woodcarving, and sure enough the work being done by these men is worthy of note. There are both carvers and designers, while the women mostly put the finishing touches like varnishing and sandpapering. Locally available woods like Itula, mango and Olive are used, woods that aid in the preservation of the environment.

Within the grounds is a tree nursery that provides the source of the wood used. Different types including Jacaranda that the government is now promoting are grown, plus fruit trees like lemon and passion fruit. The latter are mostly bought by members of the community during the rainy season for planting on their individual farms. This therefore offers an alternative source of income to the society's members. Noble hardwork and an impressive effort that really should be supported more.

Ngulia Safari Lodge

We continue on our journey southwards, the Chyulu hills now appearing in the distance. Mtito Andei is another major stopover. Do note that tourists going into the Tsavo West National Park may take public transport upto here, from where the lodges would pick you up. The park gate is not far from the turnoff. Managed by the Kenya Wildlife Service, the park roads are well maintained with clear signs. An impromptu game drive is always welcome, and sure enough we see some impala, and a lone elephant who seems very agitated that we have disturbed his feeding time. The smallest of the antelopes- the Dikdik- shyly peers out at us, while the more aggressive buffaloes glare restlessly.

Our arrival at the Ngulia Safari Lodge is marked by an unexpected amount of pomp. The entire management team are always present to meet guests, and one can't help but to join in to the song and dance. On checking in the manager gives me a brief introduction to the surroundings. The lodge is strategically located on high ground atop the edge of the Ndawe escarpment, offering a vast panorama of the Rhino valley, Ngulia hills and the Yatta plateau in the distance and beside a watering hole that is frequented by wildlife. Waterbuck graze while a family of elephants laps up some water. Even the smaller creatures are in abundance, like geckos and rock hyraxes.

Leopard feeding time...

The time is 6:30p.m., and Kaberia the restaurant waiter makes his way to a structure that has purposefully been erected to give guests a rare surprise. He straps on a leg of goat meat, which is supposed to act as bait for leopards. After pouring some water in a trough for it to drink, it's now the guests turn to wait in anticipation for the spectacle to begin. Time passes before the leopard finally makes an appearance at exactly 8:20p.m., slinking up the tree to the waiting delicacy. Guests eagerly roll their cameras, for one rarely gets a chance to take such clear close up shots of wild cats. Soon after a hyena cautiously makes its way forward, hoping for some titbits. But no luck as the leopard comes back to finish off what it started.

I thought that was a spectacular end to the day, but yet another surprise awaits us as soon after dinner the staff approach us with a cake, specially baked for the crew. All is well as we share the cake with friends. Now that is a delicious end to the day!

Mzima Springs

Tsavo West has more in terms of attractions than Tsavo East, so we set off in the morning to the springs that supply the entire town of Mombasa.

As such Mzima very aptly means ‘life' in Kiswahili. The water is fresh and clean, having been filtered by the underground volcanic rocks. Enjoy the view with a backdrop of bubbling springs and birds singing as you take a stroll around. The pool is home to crocodiles and 70 hippos that feed at night and swim during the day. Marvel at the blue baabo fish from the comfort of an underwater fish hide.

Hippo point

Hippo Point faces the Rhino valley and has 7 hippos that are agitated at seeing us so close on foot. Do note that you should not get out of your vehicle unless accompanied by a guide or ranger because there are also crocodiles here, not to mention other wild animals.

Off we go again, passing the Ngulia Safari camp that offers alternative accommodation within the park, with self-catering bandas for those who want privacy.

The clouds slowly gather with the threat of rain. Having an interesting and informed guide like Mbulu is great, because you'll be shown hills like the 5 sisters, named thus for their similar shape and proximity. The hills are both black and green, due to the major lava flows that occured here, leaving black-coloured volcanic soil in some parts.

Shetani lava flow and caves

Perhaps the most fascinating volcanic features are the Shetani lava flow and caves, named thus because of supernatural conotations by the local community who couldn't understand the steaming molten ground. Shetani is the kiswahili word for 'devil'. it is said that a long flat stretch within the rocky surface was caused by a giant snake that slithered across the molten lava immediately after the volcano. The caves are dark and heavy with the pungent smell of bat droppings - not suitable if you're claustrophobic, but exciting to experience.

Roaring Rocks

Another place of interest is the Roaring rocks. A short climb leads to their top where a map indicates where you are and exactly what you are looking at. The rocks are named so because, at the time of the volcanic eruption, the flow reached a few metres from here, the movement causing the rocks to bunch up in a massive movement. High winds also seem to roar past. In the distance is a gathering of elephants, and we wonder what matters of importance they could be discussing.

This park is certainly full of rarely-seen animals; like the Lesser Kudu which is quite shy as it keeps time with our vehicle from behind some bushes. It obviously wants to cross and is trying to get ahead of us, so we switch off the engine to give it a chance. First try and no- it's too scared. Ok let's try again. Another hesitant walk to the road, and this time it seems convinced that we've left, and jumps across the road as we cheer.

Rhino sanctuary

On the way to the Rhino sanctuary we came across a Kudu and an old buffalo grazing alone. At the age of about 16 years buffalos have been kicked out of the herd by the younger males and are easy prey for lions. Sure enough we soon find the carcass of a recently killed buffalo. The lionesses are a little way off, waiting until our tour van leaves before continuing with their meal. Soon enough we reach the Rhino sanctuary, currently home to about 60 black rhinos. It is open only between 4 and 6p.m. so as to give the black rhinos as much undisturbed peace as possible to multiply.

Despite our enthusiasm to see the rhinos we are unsuccessful. All we see are more of the red elephants of Tsavo. As we depart, a beautiful sunset paves our way out of the sanctuary.

On the way back we find one lioness feasting on the buffalo carcass we had seen earlier. It's an amazing sight, seeing the king of jungle so close, though rather scary too since we're close enough for her to pounce....

The lights come on at Ngulia Lodge on the hill, inviting us back for the evening meal. But before dinner it's time to once again enjoy the daily evening spectacle of a leopard coming to feed on the goat leg placed as bait, and later wash it down with a few sips of water.

So ends a wild and interesting day in one of the largest parks in Kenya . Time now to settle down to the sounds of the night and the comfort of this very hospitable game lodge.

Rhino

•  Tsavo West is 235 kilometres midway on the Mombasa and Nairobi highway.

•  There are 5 main entrance points to the park, consult KWS before travelling to find out the most suitable.

•  There are airstrips within the park.

•  Public campsites may be booked through Kenya Wildlife Service

More on Tsavo National Park: Tsavo East

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