|
Country Info
....................................................................................................................................
The Kenyan Coastline
 Lamu ni Tamu!
Lamu ni tamu! That's how the people of Lamu describe their magnificent island town with its ancient buildings and deeply cultural Swahili atmosphere that provides a suitable backdrop to age-old stories dating back to the 7th century AD.
Getting there
The best way to travel to Lamu is undoubtedly by air. Depending on the kind of plane you get - Dash or Twin Otter- you'll get there in various times but all in under two hours. Kenya has over the years been experiencing rapid growth in the transport industry. A growth span that has proven beneficial to the very essential tourism industry. Air travel, though still more expensive than other forms of transport namely road and rail, is becoming increasingly popular as it is both fast and reliable.
The departure point for small craft is Wilson airport in Nairobi, the busiest small aircraft airport in East Africa that is serviced by many local, foreign and private firms. Checking in time is usually one hour before the expected flight time. With the rising global insecurity you have to undergo a security check as standard protocol.
If you have time to kill have a bite in the inhouse cafeteria, that also sells artifacts like traditional baskets and curios. On my trip I chose to fly Airkenya, which provides a network of scheduled services throughout Kenya and operates charters within the East African region as well, serving destinations like Lamu, Malindi and Kiwayu on the Coast and the game parks of Amboseli, Nanyuki, Lewa Downs, Meru, Samburu and the Maasai Mara.
 My first-time flight was aboard a 50-seater plane; the next on an 18-seater. The larger ones have a stewardess who serves snacks and beverages during the flight. The smaller don't have room for a stewardess so you'll be offered a packet with a snack and packed juice as you board. And if the captain is really friendly he'll through in some mints!
The thrill of flying is like nothing else in this world, soaring above the world as the ground stretches out below in shades of green and brown. The smaller the plane though, the bumpier the ride as it slides through air pockets but on getting to 17,000 feet above sea level it's smooth sailing above the clouds. It's hard to believe that this is the same height as Mount Kenya.
 1 hour and 20 minutes later the Tana Rivers large outlet to the Indian ocean comes into view, like a dark blue snake crawling through the green mainland. The islands are surrounded by dense forests of mangrove trees, with sparse ancient-looking dwellings and scatterings of scrubland fringed by white sandy beaches. This is the Manda island airport, the only airport servicing the surrounding islands including Lamu, and which is a short boat ride across the ocean. Passengers are picked up by representatives of their respective hotels, or hosts, in motorboats. The heat is sweltering, but the spray from the ocean is cool and refreshing as we speed across the blue waters, finally catching sight of Lamu island. The sight of the island makes me catch my breath and brings to mind a description I read - describing Lamu as the ‘Venice of Kenya'. It certainly looks ancient enough, reminding me of historical pictures and movies I've seen; what with its mostly white buildings constructed in an arabic style, and the mass of fishing boats or jahazis as they are known here, floating side by side with the larger dhows.
Accommodation
We choose to stay in Lamu Palace, a town hotel located on the main Lamu road where Lamu is most lively, thus commanding a fascinating view of the channel between Manda and Lamu islands and open to a fantastic breeze blowing in from the open sea. Richly carved Lamu style furniture adorns all rooms as well as the spacious terrace.
There are now numerous accommodation options in Lamu town, Shela which borders the town and has sand dunes and a beautiful beach, and on the islands of Manda all the way to Kiwayu. Choose from a range of hotels and holiday homes, some rebuilt from the ruins of ancient homesteads thus generating that authentic feel of life in days gone by.
Sundowner
It's our first evening by the sea, and after freshening up we are ferried across to the Manda island beach club for a sundowner drink. The beach club sports a wonderful view of the sand dunes of Shela, which have a myth attached to them following in the tradition of the unique features of Kenya. It is said that the dunes were once a village of people who, after the death of their leader, degenerated into an immoral, reckless society, oblivious to warnings of repercussions. So the spirits of their ancestors cursed them all to a sad fate, submerging their village under sand for all eternity. Be this as it may, the dunes still offer a perfect setting for a beautiful sunset, which I happily enjoy in the presence of good company and a relaxing glass of wine.
Lamu nights
Lamu by night is a vibrant, active town filled with hundreds of locals milling around or sitting in shop doorways just watching the world go by. Everyone knows everyone else in this friendly town, whose crime rate is almost non-existent so you can comfortably walk around till the wee hours of the morning. Hungry? Not a problem; have some spicy, tasty chicken mshkaki for only 10 shillings! And ladies, you'll be happy to know that shops remain open till late, and the offerings are great. What with kikoys and khangas in attractive colours and designs that are suitable to wear in the hot coastal weather.
It is important to note though that not too many shops remain open on Sundays, and over the weekdays lunch breaks tend to extend to 3 hours long.
As we walk around town on this lazy Sunday evening, we admire the delicate Swahili craftsmanship on the huge Lamu doors that are now in demand worldwide. Unfortunately this demand has resulted in sub-standard copies of the same being made in other Kenyan towns.
For those who want to enjoy a more vigorous fun night out, there are good disco venues, mainly open on weekends. Great music blares from the speakers and we are also entertained by a local acrobatic troupe. The crowd is mostly male, both local and foreign, due to the strong influence of the Islamic religion here, but after a couple of cocktails my friend Terry and I get onto the dancefloor to exercise our muscles. What a way to end a perfect Lamu night!
Daytime activities
Our second day has been set aside exclusively to explore Lamu by day. This is a town that holds promise of historical findings and current expeditions. So not surprisingly we eagerly set out on a walk organized by the hotel. You can still take off on your own though because it is hard to get lost. There are only two main roads within the town running right across it. We begin our walk along Harambee street, a very busy street as this is where most of the businesses are located. Just make sure you start your walk by 9a.m. or after 5p.m. because the temperatures can get uncomfortably hot for those of us used to cooler, less humid climates. Dress very light, in fact I've found that the khangas I bought last night make the perfect daywear. You can cool off by drinking madafu or coconut juice sold by street vendors, it's actually more refreshing than water. The inner town is a maze of narrow alleys with one or two donkeys tethered outside their owner's homes.
Lamu's atmosphere is thick with its authentic swahili lifestyle and cultures of mixed origin. This conservative Muslim town has a heritage of peace and goodwill. For the lovers of history like me it has so much to teach. Soon after we begin our walk we stop at the Riadha mosque and Koran school, a prayer venue for Muslims from East and Central Africa who cannot travel all the way to Mecca. During this Holy period food is donated by rich people to the less fortunate, in search of blessings.
On Harambee street we stop at the German post office, the first post office to be opened along the Kenyan coast in 1888. It was built on land reclaimed from the ocean at a time when merchants from Europe, the near and far East were finding their way to Lamu when it was a major East African sea port. It operated for about 2 years before its closure after the withdrawal of the German settlement in Kenya and with the entry of the British East Africa Company. Aside from large photographs with visual descriptions of its history, other artifacts tell its story. This should be interesting for any history lovers out there.
The Lamu fort and environmental museum is one of the most imposing historical structures in Kenya, exceeded in size only by Fort Jesus in Mombasa. This is an immense building whose origin dates back to 1813 when it was built to commemorate the victory of the Lamu people over the allied forces of Pate and Mombasa during the battle at Shela. The Sultan of Oman assisted in its construction, and in addition offered his protection against more possible invasions. From 1910 to 1984 it was used as a prison before being handed over to the National Museums of Kenya in 1984 for restoration as a monument. Now it is being converted into a socio-cultural centre with facilities like a library, gift shop and a permanent exhibition on the care and preservation of the environment. The big central courtyard serves as an open-air theatre and crucial meeting point for women to celebrate weddings.
The passage of time has been kind to this old town with its cluster of elegant buildings, most of them two-storey homes, weathering the test of time. Each home is given a unique personal touch by way of colour and design. The typical Lamu colours are red- obtained from mahogany bark, black from charcoal, and white from ground coral. Backdoors are less ostentatious. Tourists have a chance to see inside one of the houses at the Swahili house museum. Apparently evil spirits are believed to live in corners, so the many carved-out boxes in the walls confuse them ensuring the safety of the home and its belongings.
 Coral rock held together by limestone has been the main building material for centuries. However it wears out at a rate that can no longer be maintained, so people are opting to use bricks carved out of coral and cemented with longer lasting materials. Outside each home stands a well. It takes great strength and practice to maneuver the rope and bucket.
Originally a trading post centuries ago, Lamu has continued to play host to a myriad of cultures. The majority of these are the Swahili who follow the Islamic religion faithfully, and indeed the Swahili women still don their black buibuis whenever in public, standing out as symbols of religion and tradition.
Closely related to them are the Bajuni people, a small ethnic group of Chinese ancestry stemming from intermarriages between the Bantu and Chinese settlers 600 years ago. Walking around Lamu, one therefore realizes this diversity.
Swimming
Shela beach, one of the world's best beaches, skirts the small fishing village of Shela that is a walking distance from Lamu. It hosts quite a number of persons of royalty and money, who have restored beautiful old houses to their past glory. Whether or not you stay in Shela you can always enjoy a swim in its clear waters that are devoid of any seaweed, and there's always a chance to meet new friends as you wallow in the warm salty shallows. From Shela beach we take another boat ride across the channel and up a narrow mangrove creek to Manda Island, to visit the ancient ruins of Takwa town. For an entry fee, wander among fabled baobab trees into the remains of this 16th century Swahili town that is now a national monument. All structures were built of locally quarried coral set in mortar made of earth, sand and lime.
The lime was produced by burning heaps of coral over cylindrical piles of wood. Four main gates existed, within which are the typical buildings found in any Swahili town, from houses to wells, washrooms and store facilities and mosques. The pillar tomb of Takwa is a high-walled, unroofed rectangle with a pillar that is still considered sacred to the people of Shela, and who visit it twice a year to pray for rain and blessings. One inscribed block belongs to Allah, at the bottom of which is the Arabic date 1094, which corresponds to the Christian year 1683. For more information you can buy handouts from the reception.
Matondoni
Day three takes us speeding along the waterways of Lamu which link it to the mainland and surrounding islands. Visitors from the mainland arriving by bus disembark at Mokoe port, the final stop for road users between the mainland and islands. It takes about 5 hours to get here from Mombasa. Our destination this morning is Matondoni, a quaint, ancient little village where we will learn the secrets of the traditional Swahili dhow constructions.
Bwana Mohammed is the chief, and he graciously guides me on a tour through the now-quiet village; as everyone is engaged in whatever work they are best suited for, from farming to fishing off Lamu, to dhow-making. The boatyards of Matondoni are one of the last places where dhows are built by traditional methods. We find one dhow that has been left here for repair, which is usually done after 6 months, while another one is under construction and should be complete in a few months' time. The duration depends on the advance payment, availability of materials and the size of the dhow. Usually it takes 6 months to a year to complete.
The outer wood is mahogany, while mangrove lines the inside. Even the tools are those that have been used for centuries, like the drill or ‘uta wa KK' which makes drilling surprisingly easy! Hey if I can do it….. the only way a nail will penetrate mahogany is if a hole has been drilled first- the wood is that strong! The spaces in between the planks are filled with cotton wool that has been soaked in coconut oil; the wood is bent into shape with the help of heat and oil.
A new boat is always launched amid great festivity.
Matondoni village has a 5,000-year-old heritage. When walking through, dress appropriately and respect the villagers who are otherwise friendly and welcoming, making it a real pleasure to visit. We depart back to Lamu to prepare for our afternoon flight back to Nairobi, bidding farewell to this town.
So if you would like to be part of and indeed enjoy a six hundred year old heritage then Lamu is surely your destination.
Accommodation rates and images
Related link: Lamu archipelago
Copyright Exotic Expeditions Limited. All rights reserved. |
