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Country Info
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The Great Rift Valley Lakes
Lake Turkana
CAMPING IN NORTHERN KENYA
Marsabit to Turkana
This is the second part of our 8-day safari up north into what was once referred to as the Northern Frontier District of Kenya .
Day four dawns rainy and cloudy, and since we are camping it proves impossible to avoid getting wet. My companions and I are drenched as we pack up our tents and take cold showers in the Kenya Wildlife Service Marsabit campsite. After breakfast it's time to sit our wet selves in the comfortable 9-seater Landcruiser and head out of Marsabit. The road proves a challenge even for this strong vehicle, as we slip and slide in wet red mud, get stuck, the driver changes to the 4 Wheel Drive gear, and eventually gets us out. Once again this is an argument very much in favour of these strong vehicles for such trips to the less modernised regions of Kenya .
Now comes the surprise of the day. Our driver had mentioned that, this being a biosphere, we will be shocked at just how quickly the terrain and climate changes. And sure enough as we drive down from 1,800 metres above sea level, the landscape gradually changes from green luscious vegetation to fewer, shorter trees and shrubs and finally to sparse tufts of grass on black volcanic soil.
Barely 6 kilometres from the wetness of Marsabit we are in the desert, hot air blowing in through the windows and the sun beating down on us such that our wet clothes quickly dry in a few minutes. It's a fascinating change, and would make for great video footage so carry those camcoders along! The terrain is rough, the ride tiring, so grab those 40 winks during your lunch break. Or walk around and investigate the piles of volcanic rocks spread out as far as the eye can see, which are heaped one atop the other, as though by some unseen hand.
 The dry north
140 kilometres from Marsabit is Kalacha town, where we pitch our tents again for the night. Close by is a large tank that doubles as a swimming pool so we jump in to cool off until the weather cools sufficiently for us to go exploring. The Gabbra people are the majority here, but since they are not allowed to forge their own weapons under custom they live side by side with the Kosso tribe who are blacksmiths.
The Chalbi desert is the main attraction here, Chalbi being a Gabbra word that means ‘salt'. Salt deposits are present amidst the dry caked sand, appearing as white patches. ThereThis isn't the typical desert we see in movies with sand dunes and sand storms; on the contrary this desert is perfectly flat, stretching out to distant hills. Rumour has it that this was once a lake whose waters may have stretched from Lake Victoria to Lake Turkana millions of years ago. The oasis provides a watering hole for the local community's cattle and camels. It's a strange sight, because right next to the water is extremely cracked dry ground. And the wind is eerilystrong, in fact we are told that sometimes, especially during the dry season, it is possible for someone to be carried mid-air by the force of the wind. Fortunately not today, so we can peacefully sit and chat as we wait for the picture-perfect sunset over the hills far, far away.
The caked desert 
Chalbi desert to Turkana The journey continues the next morning, though flat terrain on which there is no clearly demarcated road. It's easy to get lost here, hence my vote in favour of using tour companies that are familiar with the routes. Maps won't help much either.
The trip is kept interesting by the constant changes in scenery. Now the sand dunes come into the picture as we near North Horr where we promptly get stuck in deep sand. The villagers curiously mill around as the crew engages in digging the trucks out. Dust swirls all around, getting into literally every crevice so don't wear your Sunday best here. The Gabbra people are of the majority here, so take some time to walk around and shop for artifacts, or simply have a conversation with these friendly people, most of whom cannot fathom a city as large as Nairobi .
Once the trucks are finally free of their grainy hold we continue north through more desolate lands with little sign of habitation as we get into the Turkana tribe's territory, except for the occasional herdsman tending his camels. Or a Turkana homestead with children curiously running out to see these wondrous mechanical beasts zooming through their land.
About 2 hours from Kalacha we come upon a winding road ensconced between mounds of big black volcanic rocks and green sand. Yes, green. Difficult to believe at first until we get to learn that Lake Turkana is also known as the Jade Sea- hence the sand around it would take on a similar colour. But the best moment of all is our first sighting of the lake itself; appearing suddenly in the horizon, beyond the big black mounds of volcanic rock, its shimmering waters spread out like a green carpet. What a refreshing view after the dry dusty road we have travelled.
The only town here is Loiyangalani, which has a small hotel. However we are driven further on to a semi-permanent beach campsite that is built very simply, with 12 double traditional Turkana palm leaf huts that moderate the temperature appropriately be it day or night. Each has two beds and mattresses. You won't need much cover at night because of the heat. And this area is so safe that at night we don't need to seal the huts! A strong wind blows down from the volcanic mounds to the lake, and one definite advantage is that it helps to prevent sweating, keeping one cool and comfortable, but you must carry sunscreen because the sun is still very intense, on average 30 degrees centigrade.
All meals are served within the makuti-enclosed dining area that faces the lake. The only pool is at the hotel, but swimming is at a fee, so we decde to take the easy way out and swim in the lake. Which isn't a straightforward solution because it has crocodiles. But once again we rely on the crew's experience and dare to swim. You see the trick is to throw stones into the water first and while swimming make a lot of noise- the crocodiles here are quite shy and hate noise and crowds of people. So we happily swim the afternoon away close to the shore. Because of the water's alkalinity it feels slightly slimy and soapy, but very refreshing on a hot afternoon!
While we swim at 370 metres above sea level, Mount Kulal looms behind us on the Eastern shore , standing at 2,164 metres above sea level.
As evening sets in our eyes are drawn to the beautiful sunset over the western hills of the lake. The water moves towards it as if magnetically drawn by its rays. An utterly relaxing sight, after which it's time to shower under the stars in the roofless makuti-enclosed showers....
Night passes and the sixth day of our safari dawns. A boat excursion has been planned for morning, aboard a 20-seater motorboat that is also available for sunset cruises. The waters are rough as we leave because of the constant strong wind blowing over the lake, the huge swells rocking the boat as I balance at the helm. Careful though, don't forget there are crocs in there!reminiscent of boat rides on the Indian Ocean . Lake Turkana has remained a mystery to many Kenyans who have only read about it, so here are some facts about it...
Lake Turkana
• was formerly known as Lake Rudolf
• largest, permanent desert lake in the world and the northern-most of Kenya 's Rift Valley lakes
• The numerous hills and lava flows surrounding it are evidence of the intense volcanic activity that occurred here during the formation of the Great Rift Valley millions of years ago
• The lava is alkaline in nature, lending this property to the lake that is also alkaline and its waters undrinkable.
• With no outlet, its water is lost mainly by evaporation. It is fed by the Omo River in Ethiopia and Turkwel River in Kenya .
• Its surrounding barren landscape is rich in prehistoric history; according to famous fossil findings this may well be where man first walked upright, some dating as far back as three million years at Koobi Fora, a prehistoric site further north of the lake.
• The name Jade Sea is derived from algae particles present in the water which lend the waters a shimmering jade tint to a slate grey, depending on the effects of wind and light. |
Of great fascination are the inhabitants of a certain isolated island- the nearly extinct El Molo tribe. It is said that at one time their numbers did not exceed 99 villagers; due to taboo any child born after that would be killed. Fortunately that practice is no longer in effect and today they live in their hundreds in scattered villages. They migrated to this island so as to get away from marauding tribes, however life has proven tough here. what with unpredictable sporadic rains and sparse grass for their goats that provide practically the only sustenance other than fish. If you'd like to help then go ahead and buy their artifacts and colourful jewellery to tourists. Visiting will also cost you an additional fee.
The lake swarms with Nile crocodiles, which have remained almost unchanged for 130 million years. They were traditionally hunted by the El Molo and occasionally by Turkanas, but it is now illegal to hunt them. The ride back to camp is long, the view of the coarse black sandy shores and semi-desert scrub.
Did you know....
About 2 million years ago the lake's level was over a hundred metres higher and it stretched at least 160 kilometres further south to include Lake Baringo, until the earth's movements about 10,000 years ago separated the two lakes.
The seventh day marks the beginning of our return to Nairobi . There are some vantage points from where you must get out of the car for one final memorable look at the Jade Sea . The green waters are tinged with white crests caused by an early morning strong wind, while the Southern Island stands aloof in the midst of all the motion. On the mainland the volcanic rocks look chipped as if they are the unfinished chiseled works of a creator who got bored before he finished his masterpiece.
 The Jade Sea's Central island
Onwards now, and once again we are witness to strange changes in climate and terrain, for within an hour we are surrounded by lush green vegetation overlooked by the Ol Donyo Mara and Nyiro mountains. Towns you can stop at for supplies include South Horr and Baragoi, populated by Samburus and Somalis. Then, cross the Nyiro plateau flanked by the Milima Gukuyu on one side, which apparently is where our first president Mzee Kenyatta chipped stones as a prisoner before independence. The temperature steadily gets colder especially at the viewpoint for the Suguta valley in Maralal district, which is the lowest point in Kenya and the Great Rift Valley . Temperatures get to an astounding 600 degrees centigrade! 30 minutes from here is Maralal town, the setting for a house that features historically as the place where Mzee Jomo Kenyatta wrote the book ‘Facing Mount Kenya', and where he and his family were held under house arrest by the colonial government. It is open for public view, and a guide is present to provide information.
Accommodation in Maralal is at the Yare Camel Club and campsite that has been the base of the annual Maralal camel derby. The facilities are able to accommodate over-night stays or a simple day out, with a playground, bandas with running hot water and grassy lawns on which to pitch tents. After a final night of enjoying drinks in the bar we part ways for our final night of our 8-day safari.
The next day we finally get back onto tarmac road, after 7 days of only murram road. Nyahururu looms cold and cloudy, the majestic Thomson's Falls plunging down to unseen depths surrounded by greenery. Take a break, stretch your legs, and do some bargaining at the loads of stalls selling a wide variety of traditional ornaments and clothing.
The equator sign just outside Nyahururu marks the last touristic stop on our 1,800-kilometre journey. And now it's back to Nairobi .
In short..
• two routes get to Turkana, either go through Samburu and Marsabit and get there in 5 days, or through Nyahururu and Maralal and get there in 2 days
• preferably use an adventure tour company that has experienced staff and strong vehicles
• get ready to rough it- there's no room for prim and proper here, it's pure raw and wild adventure
Suffice it to say, leave your inhibitions behind. This is a trip that you must make at least once in your life.
Accommodation rates and images
..................................................................................................................................... Other Rift Valley Lakes:-
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