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The Great Rift Valley Lakes

Lake Naivasha

This has been the most popular inland destination for its close proximity to Nairobi and variety of accommodation ranging from hotels to campsites.

Also very close to the lake is the Hell's Gate National Park, suitable for daytrip hikes, rock climbing, cycling amongst the wildlife and camping.

 

 

Crescent Island

We awake the first morning at Crayfish Camp to the sight of birds lingering on the grassy lawns while others frolick on the calm lake. A more adventurous alternative to staying in the rooms is camping out on the wide open grounds that lead down to the lake. This has become quite popular as the camping craze gains momentum, and all camping gear may be hired from the hotel at a friendly rate. Kids will also enjoy staying in unique 'toy cars'.

Toy car beds

Dining may also be either in the restaurant at an additional fee, or self catering by cooking your own food in the cooking areas provided.

Although the weather is chilly because it's the cold season, we embark on a boat ride on Lake Naivasha. These are offered at an extra cost in the mornings when the lake's waters are calm. In about 35 minutes we arrive at Crescent Island. Even before we disembark the sight of large numbers of Impala surrounded by birds greets us.

At the pier

Engage in activities like game-viewing, picnicking and fishing. A walk through the island's 400-acre greenery is perfect after a heavy breakfast and will surely boost your appetite for lunch. The only relatively scary animal here is Priscilla the water python, whom we peek at through the bushes. But no worries because she doesn't bite. Guides are present to show visitors around. Over 200 species of birds exist here, but the highlight is certainly the fact that you can walk freely, and safely, amongst the wild animals.

Animals present include the Common zebra, impalas and Maasai giraffe. Sheep comfortably graze beside the wild animals, all fully focused on simply satisfying their hunger. By the end of this trip my travelling companion Clara and I have decided to definitely come back here someday, perhaps for a picnic with friends!

Crescent Island

Elsamere

In the afternoon we visit another tourist attraction that holds memorabilia from Kenya's history. This is the Elsamere Conservation Centre, formerly the home of George and Joy Adamson who named it after their lioness Elsa of the ‘Born Free' fame.

This haven for nature lovers is set in an acacia forest and has beautifully groomed grounds within which one can relax, the only sound literally being the sound of calm and the chirping of birds. Accommodation is provided in simple cottages set in the gardens around the main house, some with huge glass windows so that you can view the hippos right outside your room at night. Fred the guide has been here a long time, so he takes us around and gives us some insight into the story behind Elsamere.

Many of Joy's paintings and artifacts still decorate the house. She loved capturing the flora and fauna of Kenya, as well as images of the different tribes. Her works can be seen in the National Museum in Nairobi and even at State House! A small museum holds George and Joy's possessions and dates back decades. There is a dress that Joy deliberately wore to a function where the Queen of England had worn exactly the same dress! Needless to say this caused quite a stir among the other guests as Joy stubbornly refused to change!

George Adamson was Joy's third husband. They became world famous for their pioneering conservation work especially with lions, cheetahs and leopards. George had to kill a man-eating lioness, so they adopted her three cubs. Two were taken away by authorities, leaving the couple with only Elsa. Years later when she had her young, she brought them back to George and Joy to bring up as they had done with her.

Various artifacts related to this amazing story of wildlife conservation are on sale. Getting copies of the books they wrote is near impossible, so a visit to Elsamere is worthwhile because documentaries are shown and of course Fred will tell you all you need to know. Also on display is the vehicle in which George Adamson was shot dead. You don't have to be a resident here to enjoy the facilities. You may pay for lunch or a high afternoon tea separately (the chocolate cake is excellent!), enjoying it under the canopy of trees. Some Colobus monkeys are resident here as well, and as 3 o'clock is their feeding time they quickly join us for their mid-afternoon snack.

Colobus monkeys on the grounds

When we get back to the inn later in the evening the air has considerably chilled, so Clara and I treat ourselves to some time in the steam bath. And so ends our second day in Naivasha.

Climbing Mt. Longonot

The third day dawns extremely early as we have to be at the base of Mt. Longonot by 6:15a.m. to take advantage of the cool air for our climb up the mountain. Armed with bottled water and minimal luggage plus a couple of KWS rangers to ward off dangerous buffaloes, we begin the trek. All the way up the surrounding lay of the Rift Valley gradually opens up, revealing itself bit by bit. Mt. Longonot is a dormant volcano with beautifully V-shaped valleys and ridges. It lies on the Rift Valley floor beside the old Nairobi to Naivasha road. Dramatic views of it may be obtained from viewpoints, and it offers a wide range of attractions for visitors keen on activity holidays with hiking, rock climbing, biking as well as bird and wildlife viewing. Climb at a reasonable fee safely as wardens and rangers constantly patrol the area and are on hand to offer useful tips and advice.

The climb is tough, that's for sure, so the guides offer a few tips that help make it more endurable: first, if you want to relax do not sit down because this will leave you feeling even more tired. Instead, alternately place each leg on a raised surface for a few seconds. Secondly, when climbing use short steps and take breaks every 20 to 40metres. This isn't a race so enjoy yourself! And lastly, start your climb early, preferably by 6:30a.m. before the temperatures get high; dress light and carry light.

After 2 1/2 hours we make it - I actually make it! Didn't seem possible about halfway up, so after a little jump and large shout of glory we begin the walk round the 12km rim of the crater, enjoying a great view of the crater's impenetrable forest within which wildlife lives (very peacefully obviously as there's no human dwelling in there). Fresh air blows alternately from Lake Naivasha and from within the crater - refreshing!

After a break, loads of photos and pats on the back, we begin the 1 hour descent, meeting many groups on their way up in the now very-hot morning. Many take this challenge especially on weekends, from school parties to hospital staff and work colleagues.

That was definitely a morning well spent. The fulfillment I got from taking on the mountain is certainly one of the highlights of my life!

Back at camp the euphoria continues and I decide to try another first - horse riding - which turns out to be quite an adrenaline rush as I silently pray that the horse doesn't decide to suddenly take off like in the movies. Fortunately the serene walk along the riverbank is as soothing to it as it is to me, so all's well that ends well.

Next: Hell's Gate National Park

Accommodation rates and images

 

Other Rift Valley Lakes:-

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Travel tips Lake Naivasha

• Always ask what the weather is like when you make your bookings, so that you are not caught unawares by climatic extremes.

June is the cold season in Naivasha so carry warm clothing

• Invest in a tent and sleeping bag so that you are always ready for the camping experience

• The road is tarmac all the way from Nairobi. Public transport is available

• Buy your own camping gear. You never know when it will come in handy!

• Certain campsites attract rowdy crowds so be careful when selecting, especially if you want peace and quiet

The campsites are popular for corporate getaways

Carry a camera for those memorable pics!