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Country Info
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Amboseli
Part of Kenya's souhern circuit, this is a peaceful area with non-stressful activities that are highlighted by the beauty of the ever-present Mount Kilimanjaro (or Ol donyo Ibor in Maa language) looming in the background.
The drive...
From Nairobi there are two roads to Amboseli; take Mombasa road and turn in at Athi River all the way to Namanga, or keep driving past thhe Machakos junction till Emali and turn right onto the Loitokitok road.
Athi River is a fast expanding town, conveniently located near Nairobi, with new businesses and social facilities coming up all the time but especially popular for nyama choma. The rest of the journey boasts one of the best stretches of good road in Kenya, running all the way to Namanga. Other towns you'll pass through are Kitengela, Isinya and Il Bissil. The landscape is a vast stretch of plains and low hills before getting to Kajiado.
Amboseli is slightly over 200km from Nairobi. The best way to travel down is by making arrangements either with a tour company or by hiring a mini-bus as a group, so that transport from Namanga into the park is guaranteed. Public service vehicles reach Namanga or the gate to the park but do not reach the lodges.
The border town of Namanga is overlooked by Ol-Doinyo Orok or Black Mountain, which is sacred to the Maasai tribe. This a recommended stop to buy your Maasai handicrafts from the street vendors.
Amboseli National Park
The final 80km from Namanga into the park is a murram road, so it is advisable to use a 4-wheel drive vehicle. Once you get into the park you will be rewarded with sightings of many wild animals; an unexpected game drive before reaching your destination. The road passes through stretches alternating between dry grasslands and wetlands around which are a variety of lodges all offering differently priced packages. The park can also be reached by daily charter flights.
The lodges stand in the shadow of Mount Kilimanjaro and have been designed to fit in with the local community's architecture, in this case the Maasai. Beautifully landscaped gardens and paths between avenues of trees enhance the distinctive ambience.
I believe that one of the necessary requirements for an enjoyable holiday is a good room. At Amboseli Serena lodge the rooms are cosy, their walls painted with images of wildlife and décor that is fashioned from basic natural materials. A circular sign imprinted on all the property means ‘Life is continuous' in Kimaasai. Great settings for a very restful night.
Amboseli facts:-
- Amboseli National Park is Kenya's second most popular park because of the stunning view it displays of nearby Mount Kilimanjaro, Africa's tallest mountain standing at 5,985 metres and the ‘crown of Tanzania'.
- Kilima Njaro means shining mountain in Swahili.
- The Maasai referred to it as Ol Donyo Ibor- white mountain.
- Has some of the largest elephants in Africa, monitored by the Cynthia Moss Elephant Trust. Every evening they march in unison, only to be compared with the orderliness of a marching band, toward the fertile slopes of the ‘white mountain', before coming back down the next morning to stroll on the marshy plains of the park.
- Mostly plains so easy to view game and landscapes
- Has a wide variety of wildlife and birds are in plenty
- The landscape is a mixture of marshes and grassland, which provides a fascinating backdrop on film
- Located 265 kilometres from Nairobi on all tarmac road until Namanga, then murram road inland for 80km.
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Activities
The main, flat, snow-covered peak of Mt. Kilimanjaro is called Kibo, and the jagged peaks to the left are Mawenzi. Sometimes she hides herself behind a haze of clouds especially in the early morning, so afternoons and sunset are your best chances to see the towering snow-capped peaks.
The park is fed by underground water flowing from the snow-capped peaks of Mount Kilimanjaro, giving rise to a rich mixture of fertile marshes and drier grassland favoured by hoards of animals like the buffalo, giraffe, hippos, Thomson's gazelle, common zebra, waterbuck and reedbuck.
The elephant population here is quite large due to the presence of wheat and maize fields at the base of Mount Kilimanjaro, which have forced them to find pasture in Amboseli.
If you don't make it to the Maasai Mara to view the annual wildebeest migration have no worries- Amboseli has plenty of wildebeest to satisfy your curiosity.
A group of ostriches is known as a ‘cleche', and you may catch sight of one with females only. Apparently on laying eggs female ostriches leave the dominant female in the group to sit on them till they hatch. We didn't see any burying their heads in the sand as is rumoured, but our tour guide did confirm that an ostrich can seriously injure a man with one kick of its leg or one flap of its wing.
The battle to survive in nature was clearly depicted by the sad sight of vultures already feasting on a zebra that wasn't dead yet.
On a more positive note, birdlovers will enjoy Amboseli's over 400 bird species. Arm yourself with a pair of binoculars for a better view of the ground plovers, African Jacana, Sacred Ibis, Egyptian geese and Guinea Fowl.
The park roads are well-maintained by the Kenya Wildlife Services.
Sundowners..... To capture an even more memorable view of the contrasting landscape of the park from the Noomotio observation point. Noomotio is the Maasai word meaning ‘hill of inward hollow curved rocks filled with water'. It was formed during the Pleistocene period when Mt. Kilimanjaro had volcanic activity. The rocks scattered around it are granite, which is the hardest volcanic rock. This is a lovely spot to sip on your sundowner drink as the sun sinks in the horizon, framing the mountain peaks like you have never seen before.
Sundowners and other such special activities are provided by the lodge at a supplementary fee. The biodiversity of the area needs three or four days to be really enjoyed. Game drives are offered twice a day to ensure you get your fill of the park and animals.
Back at the lodge feast on a tasty lunch that offers an array of salads, meat and starch dishes and delicious desserts. As Luciano Pavarotti once said.................. “One of the very nicest things about life is the way we must regularly stop whatever it is we are doing and devote our attention to eating.”
Types of accommodation
The lodges and tented camps are on the medium to upper price range, while the Kenya Wildlife Service bandas and public campsites are more affordable and self-catering.
Kenya Wildlife Service manages most of the parks and reserves in Kenya, and certainly all those that have passable roads and disciplined rangers. Their more popular parks have bandas or guesthouses for tourists, fully equipped with the comforts of home, and increasingly gaining popularity as affordable accommodation in the wild.
Since they are within the park, you don't have to go far to see the fascinating display that makes up Kenya 's best tourist attraction – it's wildlife.
1] Kilimanjaro Guest house
Set within the National park, this was once a Kenya Wildlife Service warden's house. It is well kept and affordable, made of stone walls and tiles.
Facilities:-
• 3 bedrooms- master room has one double bed and one single bed, the second has 2 single beds,and the final has one single bed.
• Sleeps 6.
• One bathroom.
• Bed linen and towels provided
• All kitchen utensils provided
• Gas cooker
• Generator power 7 – 10p.m.
• Reachable by road 265 kilometres from Nairobi
• All guests to bring own drinking water and firewood. Check in 12 noon, check out 10a.m.
• Self catering so you may buy easy to make food in Namanga town before entering Amboseli
• Caretaker will prepare the food at a token fee.
2] Kibo guest house
Located near Kimana gate, this Kenya Wildlife Service guesthouse houses 4 people.
Facilities:
• 2 bedrooms with 4 single beds
• One bathroom
• Bed linen and towels provided
• All kitchen utensils provided
• Gas cooker
• Generator power 7-10p.m.
• 265 km from Nairobi
• Guests to provide own firewood and drinking water
• Check in 12p.m. check out 10a.m. strictly
Please note that with the popularity of the guesthouses or bandas, booking is recommended long in advance.
Food and Drink
Preferably buy your food from the supermarkets in Nairobi, though there are also stores along the way but not with as much variety. Perishables like eggs, tomatoes, potatoes, onions, garlic, milk etc may be bought in Namanga just before entrance to the park or Kimana town 30km from the park.
If camping is your preference you can choose from either the public or private campsites available. The public community-run campsites have secure tented bandas with a cooking area, cupboards for provision of supplies and restrooms.
Private tented camps such as the Tortillis Camp has tented bandas, a fully-stocked bar, restaurant and even swimming pool, not to mention a fantastic view of Mt. Kilimanjaro and Mt. Meru seen to the right of your screens. The tents are far enough from each other to assure maximum privacy.
When the day is too hot and you wish to cool off, the lodges' acacia tree shaded swimming pools offer a welcome respite as you sip on a refreshingly cool cocktail.
Alternatively, treat yourself to a relaxing, aromatherapy massage given by the lodge's talented masseuse. Feel the scented oils soak into your weary muscles as soothing classical music plays in the background.
Traditional Maasai Village
A warm welcome awaits visitors to either of the two Maasai villages. The Maasaia are very proud of their home and were very willing to show guests around. Aside from learning a few words in their language the women also took the time to teach me a few dance steps, adorned in their necklaces; and then I was shown around a manyatta.
For a fee get to watch wedding ceremonies re-enacted, and enjoy a guided tour led by an English-speaking moran.
‘Hunger is the best sauce in the world.'
For the last meal of the day choose between a bush dinner served in the open grounds of the lodges, or a delicious buffet in the airy restaurants. From hot soup, to mushroom on toast appetizers, fresh salads, succulent roasted meat and potatoes in jackets, topped up with Crepes a la Flambe for dessert… Mm! the meal should certainly go down well...
 Ol Tukai Lodge
Accommodation rates and images
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